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Thinking about your own home?

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Let's go through Aakar Studio together.

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We'll start with the land, tell it what your family needs, and then look at

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plans, the three-dimensional model and the downloads.

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Keep your land drawing nearby.

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You can pause whenever you need to.

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The longer guide explains the smaller choices in more detail.

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First, choose the municipality and ward where the land actually sits.

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These answers help select the local planning rules.

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If it's in an old-town or heritage area, check that answer with the local office.

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A map pin, where available, helps locate the site.

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It doesn't measure your boundary or confirm permission to build.

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Here's the important bit: nine aana tells us how much land there is, but not

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its shape. For a measured rectangle, enter the plot's width and depth in metres.

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Or enter the area in ropani and aana, or bigha and kattha, with the width

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along the road. That second method creates an approximate rectangle.

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An irregular plot needs its actual outline.

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If your plot bends or narrows, choose Draw the plot.

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Add each measured side and the correct corner angle, or use measured diagonals when those

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are available. A side direction and an inside corner angle are different things.

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Don't guess a missing number just to close the drawing.

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Check north, the final closing side and any warning before using this outline in the

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brief.

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Already have a clear site drawing as a photo or PDF?

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Open the tracing tool and mark its corners.

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Then give it a reliable real-world measurement so the picture has the right scale.

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Pixels alone aren't a land measurement.

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Check the outline and resulting dimensions before applying it.

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Keep the source drawing, especially if its area and the traced area don't agree.

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Now mark the road, its width, neighbouring buildings and open land on the correct sides.

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If you know a neighbour's height, enter it; otherwise leave the uncertainty visible.

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A shared or boundary-built wall can't be treated like an open garden side with normal

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windows. Also check that parking has a usable route from the road, not just a

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rectangle labelled as a parking bay.

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Decide how much ground the house should occupy and how much you'd like to leave

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as a yard. That's ground coverage, not the total area across all floors.

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Notice the difference between a preferred front yard and a minimum you insist on keeping.

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A strict minimum leaves less room for the house.

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For sloping land, describe the fall accurately; this still isn't a completed retaining-wall design.

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Let's think about your family now.

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Choose the storeys, bedrooms, bathrooms and any needs for elderly parents.

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A half storey means a partly built top floor.

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Add a study, Puja room or other extra only when you'll use it.

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These are room requirements, not a finished floor-by-floor arrangement.

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We'll check the actual arrangement once the options are generated.

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Want rental flats as well as your own home?

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Count the owner rooms and rental rooms separately.

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A street-facing shop takes ground-floor space too.

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Then enter how many cars and motorbikes need parking.

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These choices compete for the same land.

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In the result, check separate access, privacy and vehicle movement rather than assuming that every

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requested use will fit comfortably.

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The smaller answers matter too.

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Think about wardrobes, stair shape, balconies, drying clothes and a place to sit outside.

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A projecting balcony still needs room within the allowed space.

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Floor height, water storage and power backup need sensible project information.

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They're starting choices, not complete service designs.

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A crowded list of extras can make a small plot harder to plan, so keep

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your real priorities clear.

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Now for the fun part: what should the house feel like?

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Read the style description and look at its example.

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Where the planner offers a style-fit choice, it can try suitable planning changes.

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Check the fit report afterwards.

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A glass-heavy frontage doesn't automatically create an all-glass structure, and a courtyard style still

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needs enough land for a real courtyard.

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Try the wall colours, brick treatment, window design, doors, gate and kitchen finishes.

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You can coordinate the interior look as well.

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Keep one distinction in mind: changing a finish isn't the same as moving a window

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or rearranging the kitchen. Some visual details aren't measured in the estimate.

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If Vaastu matters to you, read the stated preference and any conflicts instead of assuming

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every rule has been satisfied.

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Before generating, check the brief once more.

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Especially check the land measurements, room counts and rental requirements.

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If the combination can't fit, read the message and change a real requirement.

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When options appear, look at every floor.

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Trace the route from the gate to the entrance, then to the bedrooms, bathrooms and

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outdoor areas. A nice ground-floor picture isn't the whole house.

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Compare the options using your family's priorities: privacy, circulation, room usefulness and outdoor

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space. Then inspect the drawing behind the comparison.

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If you make an edit, check whether it was accepted and what actually moved.

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A pending preview isn't the same as the accepted house used by downloads.

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After any change, check doors, windows and the route through nearby rooms again.

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Open the three-dimensional model and turn the house around.

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Try the roof and floor controls to understand how the rooms stack.

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Use the appearance and surroundings controls to inspect materials, daylight and the site.

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Then try the night lighting if it's available.

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This is useful for spotting awkward spaces, but a good-looking model doesn't prove that every

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visible finish is in the drawings or the cost estimate.

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Want a better sense of the rooms?

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Switch to walking and follow the real doorways.

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If you lose your place, return to orbit.

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An automatic house tour follows a prepared route; a high-quality film is another output again.

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Availability depends on the build, account and device.

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Read any room-coverage note, because the standard tour may leave out smaller rooms or balconies.

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Let's look at cost. Check the finish level, location rates, specifications and what's included.

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Your budget answer is used for comparison; it doesn't currently force the planner to generate

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within that amount. Material sizes, waste and reviewed quantities can change the estimate.

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Download the breakdown and exclusions before making a commitment.

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Treat it as a planning estimate, not a guaranteed contractor price or a proven five-percent

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accuracy claim.

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For the schedule, enter a realistic start date and crew capacity.

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Include holidays, weather delays and the required construction waits.

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Some tasks depend on earlier work, so adding people won't shorten every wait.

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Then check the payment and funding timeline.

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You can have enough money overall and still have a shortfall in a particular month

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if the loan or savings arrives after a payment is due.

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The soil questions need a little care.

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The seismic soil class describes how the ground affects earthquake shaking.

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Allowable bearing capacity describes what the foundation soil can support.

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They aren't the same number.

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Get both from the appropriate site investigation and your responsible engineer.

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Don't choose a safe-sounding answer from the neighbourhood name, a photograph or an informal test

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just to make the calculation run.

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Choose the structural system with your engineer: what carries the house is different from its

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exterior style. Concrete grade, starting column sizes, roof uses and stair details must represent the

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real proposal. Run the review and read every blocked or review item.

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If members are redrawn, check the rooms and openings again.

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Export the engineering files for professional review; a passing preliminary calculation isn't permission

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to build.

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Choose a download for the job: drawing files for CAD work, IFC for building-information exchange,

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or GLB for the furnished visual model.

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For SketchUp, keep the DAE model and textures together, import them and save in SketchUp;

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a native SKP download needs the configured converter.

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IFC isn't a native Revit file.

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Save the Aakar project too, so you can reopen it.

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Changes made in another application don't automatically return here.

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And that's the main journey.

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Start with honest measurements, keep your family's priorities clear, and check the same house across

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the drawings, model and estimate.

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Save the version you want to discuss.

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You now have a much clearer starting point for your architect and engineer.

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When you need a particular setting explained, use the chapters or open the complete guide.
